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Archetectural Sheet Metal work:

Sheathing with Copper on

Counter, Bar & Table Tops

 
a basic how-to for artists and crafters
by The Whimsie Studio craftsmen
How-To articles free to view or print:
RAW METAL Terms & Gauge Chart
 
Cleaning Copper and Brass
 
Cutting Metal Sheet and Wire
 
Flattening, Bending & Forming Metal
 
Tooling Metal with
Copper Foil, Aluminum Foil Brass Foil
 
Soldering
 
Patinas and Finishes
 
Sheathing with copper: counter & Table Tops
 
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Soldering Brass & Copper: 19 pages in color
Fine metal craft for over 22 years
 
 
 
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Counter, Bar & Table Tops

 
While small areas are easy to cover with copper or brass sheet using adhesives; making counter, bar and table tops with sheet metal is a bit more complicated. All metals expand and contract with changes in temperature. A 10 foot length of copper sheet may shrink in length as much as 3/8 inch when a room's air conditioner is turned on. Because of this and in our experience, large sheets of copper or brass cannot simply be glued or laminated to a plywood or particle board substrate. Successful countertops that we have seen rest on top of and float freely on their substrate with a minimum of attachment to allow the sheet metal to expand and contract, even wotj the heavy 23 gauge roofing weight copper.
 
The lighter 30 gauge for light wear areas may conform better to shapes and adhere better with less expantion and contraction. These also work with a spray adhesive, such as the ones 3M company makes that are available at hardware and auto parts stores. For example premium auto trim adhesive which is sprayed on both surfaces and allowed to semi dry before attaching.
 
We attempted to circumvent the expansion problem by using a flexible contact adhesive on a long bar project. We were very careful to seal the plywood with sanding sealer and rough up the underside of the copper so the glue would 'grab'. Unfortunately, the repeated shrinking and elongating of the copper caused by changes in temperature eventually caused the copper to release it from the glue. We ended up having to nail the copper to the plywood base using bronze boat nails. The nails gave our bar top a rustic maritime look which was OK but not what we initially intended.
 
On a beautiful 12' by 24' bar that we subsequently studied, we noted that the craftsman used a large bending and forming machine that would normally be used for making copper roof gutters. From the outside in, the bar had a raised lip that abutted the mahogany elbow rest. Contiguous with the lip was 20 inches of flat space and then 4 inches of sunken 'mix rail' that also had a raised lip. The entire bar appeared to have been formed off site in 10 foot sections. The individual lengths were then brought to the site, set on top of the bar base and then trimmed to length and soldered to each other. The entire surface simply rested on top of its base and was free to expand and contract. However, it needed daily polishing and even the best professionally installed tops are subject to denting, dimpling, and scratching because of the softness of copper.
 
Copper is very reactive to anything that is spilled on it. It will also continuously oxidize or tarnish when exposed to the air. Keeping a copper or brass surface shiny and bright is ongoing and intensive. (see our article on finishing). If a low maintenance, polished copper surface is required, there are new copper Formica-type laminates available by special order in the kitchen cabinet departments of home building supply stores. These laminates appear to have an actual layer of metal foil sandwiched in the material and are engineered to have the same expansion properties as the plywood or particle board that they are intended to be laminated to.
 
If you have a large area that you would like to cover with copper or brass, consider attaching it by other means than adhesives. We have heard that flexible epoxy adhesives 'could' be successful, but we have not had any experience with them. A table top could have a metal or wood trim that holds the sheet metal in place. Bronze boat nails, brass nails or tacks could be used along the edges for that wonderful 'rustic' look.
 
NOTES:
 
Most large professionally made tops are made as a floating surface. Hidden Tabs that are soldered underneath every 9 inches are attached over the top/behind and underneath to the sub material. Then the whole counter top is placed and attached to cabinets. See our soldering article.
 
Counter top contractors and ever Copper roofing contractors quite often do countertops and can advise as well.
 
 
We have heard some success mounting on a semi smooth plastic laminate with a flexible adhesive -the adhesive holds better.
 
In the 70's copper was often embedded in epoxy on tables and the thick top layer kept the copper fresh- though the epoxy itself yellows.

 

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The entire contents of this site and photographs shown herein are original and copyright protected.
(c) Copyright 2007 Bodoh Quartz Inc.-the Whimsie Studio. Larry Henke & Ronald Bodoh
 
These articles and writings are for our customers personal use only. They may not be copied or published in whole or part, in any form electronically or in print without express written permission of the authors Larry Henke & Ronald Bodoh